Week One

(Picture from Jerash ruins; this aspiring tour guide's name was Ahmed)


Week One:

It’s the end of my first full week here in Jordan, and working in the US Embassy in Amman. I am already learning a lot about US military relations with the Jordanian government and how much support the US gives to the development of Jordanian forces. The Jordanian government, in turn, supports the US diplomatic efforts in the region and its military efforts in Afghanistan. People here at the Embassy often start their days late but then go late into the night because of the seven hour time difference between here and the US: they often tend to work with the Jordanians in the morning and then work with their US counterparts in the afternoon. It makes for an interesting day, but often rewarding because you can often see the fruits to your labor and the gradual development of a project as it heads toward completion.

On Wednesday evening I was able to tag along with a small group of students that are studying at ACOR, the research center in which I live. We went out to East Amman, where many Iraqi refugees have taken up residence since 2003, and held a class in a private residence on English for a group of young Iraqi men, ranging from age 8 to 18. I had the good fortune to work with one of the younger students who ended up being extremely bright, making my job easier, and giving me a chance to practice more complicated speech in Arabic alongside the complexity of the English (the topic was “Banks”). Everyone at the residence was incredibly welcoming and friendly, everyone rose up to great each of us and introduce himself, and none of the guests were left standing. That, as a side note, is arguably the greatest cultural value here in the Middle East: hospitality, particularly in Arab culture.

Over the weekend, I accompanied an Air Force Captain to Jerash, one of the best preserved Roman/ Hellenistic towns in the region. We had almost made it to the site when a young gentleman traveling with his family decided to make a left hand turn from the middle lane, right into our path of travel. Unfortunately, in stark contrast to the extensive hospitality in the Middle East, driving skill is not in much abundance, and while there are traffic rules, they are rarely followed and enforced even less. Luckily the accident had been off of a red light, so we didn’t yet have much speed and we only dented the rear side door. I immediately got out (being in the passenger seat), as did the gentleman, and I asked if everyone in his car was okay. I think taking a few seconds for courtesies did help prevent any possible tension that might have occurred. To make a long story short, the police were nearby and had seen the accident. They took us all to the police station, began filing the report (which, being in a very small town, meant that every officer in the station made it his business to help), and asked us questions ranging from insurance coverage to political views and our opinion of Jordan. After finishing the report, the police declared the other gentleman was at fault, making him a little angry, but after some argument he ultimately acceded. He went off to notify his insurance company, and the police took us to another little office to harass us with extremely sweet tea and imploring us to honor them by coming to their houses for dinner. I think we received three or four separate invitations, and even more phone numbers with orders to call if we are ever in the area. That was really the highlight of the day; having been to Jerash in the past, I was really there for the benefit of the Air Force Captain who had not yet had a chance to visit any of Jordan’s popular sites.

Today (Sunday, and the first day of the work week) I will attend my first Rotary meeting and hopefully get a chance to introduce myself and my home. I’m looking forward to sharing what I’ve brought here, just as I’m sharing what I’m learning here through this blog. As an added bonus, I’m interested in renting an apartment for the rest of the year, I met with the owner yesterday, and we discovered our mutual connection through Rotary… It just so happens that he is a Rotarian here in Amman. Small world.

Thank you for your interest and I hope you enjoyed the update.

Brennan